Friday, March 15, 2013

Bureaucracy and Bursa


Exciting news coming to you directly from Istanbul --- I have successfully picked up my residency permit and am now allowed to stay in the country legally!

If you are interested in learning more about the wondrous world of Turkish bureaucracy continue on. If not, there is a far more excited section on my weekend trip to Bursa, Turkey in the second half of the post. 


PERMITS -

If you want to study abroad in Turkey…

Step 1: Obtain a Student Visa from a consulate in the U.S.

One would think that the process would end with step one, but no.

Step 2: Upon arriving in Turkey, you must make a residency permit appointment within 30 days of arriving in the country. However you cannot have your appointment until you have all your necessary paperwork from the University, which, our school's case, was not handed to us until the end of February. During this period you are not allowed to leave Turkey because it is illegal to re-enter the country.

Step 3.  Go to your appointment at the central police station in Istanbul.

Let me tell you nothing is more fun than traveling 2 hours to the main police station in a city of 14 million people. My appointment was at 5:30, but I thought, “Hey why don’t I try and go a little early?” So, I get to the window at 4:15. No one is in line at the window. What joy! I am going to get this done quickly! I walk up to the window and hand them all the necessary paperwork. The man looks at the time and says “5:30.” Well, yes, I know it says 5:30 but considering no one is in line and you aren’t doing anything I thought I would give it to you now. He then says to me, “Shift ends at 5:00.” Again, I don’t really see how this is relevant information because it is 4:15 and the paperwork takes maybe 5 minutes to process. But, alas, he hands back the paperwork goes and gets a piece of baklava and a cup of tea and starts talking to the guy next to him. Adjlhvasclavscjhkhgfdgksv! Are you kidding me?

So, I stand in front of him giving him the evil eye and wait until 5. At five a new guy shows up. I walk to the window and hand him the paperwork. He points to the time and says “5:30. Reception Room.” No, I am not going to the stupid reception room. I am going to stand here and make direct eye contact with you for the next half an hour and smile at you until you take my paperwork. Its 5:21… I am still standing in line. More people are coming and the room is getting crowded. I hand him the paper work at 5:25. He holds up his hand saying 5 minutes. At 5:30 he takes my paperwork. Guess I just shouldn’t have come early.

After putting me into the computer he hands me a receipt and points to another window where we have to pay for the permit. Of course, it only makes sense that the payment office would be open from 9:00 – 4:00 and you apply for the permits from 5:30- 9:00 p.m. This means you have to come back the next day.

After another 2 hour commute back to my university, step 3 is complete.

Step 4:

Make the trek all the way back to the Police Station. Of course you don’t need an appointment to pay because they will accept your money at any time in the day. 

Step 5:

Return two weeks later to pick up your permit.

Some of my friends had an earlier date than I did so I decided to take a chance and go with them. Success! I picked up my permit yesterday and am officially a resident of Turkey until June! I am now allowed to leave and enter the country freely!


BURSA -

Last weekend a group of my friends decided to spend a few days in Bursa, a city about two hours south of Istanbul. I didn’t really know much about Bursa, but was eager to explore another city in Turkey. The journey consisted of a 1.5 hour ferry ride and an hour bus ride and we arrived in Bursa around noon on a beautiful, sunny afternoon.


One of the main sites in Bursa is the Green Mosque and Tomb pictured below.




Outside the mosque we met a man who offered to give us a free tour because he was one of the people who worked on restoring the tiles. Always a bit skeptical of anything free, we hesitantly accepted. Tour was great and afterwords he took us to his shop where he showed us many old cermanics and rugs that he was restoring. He generously offered us all tea and I think most of us were still thinking…. What’s the catch?

In the Rug Store Drinking Apple Tea

He then told us to meet him in an hour and he would take us to a small café to listen to some folk music.

The music was great – one of the most authentically Turkish expierences I’ve had.


He then took us to a restaurant where we had Iskender – a Turkish dish that is known in Bursa. It is thinly sliced lamb with tomato sauce served over pita with a side of Yogurt. Definitely one of my favorite foods so far! 




After dinner he asked if we would like to see a Whirling Dervish show? I asked how much it would cost and he said that it would be free. Free? Still? I am confused why does this 40 year old man want to spend his whole evening with a group of American college students?

But we went to the show, and it was amazing to watch. The Whirling Dervishes are part of the Muslim mystic sect called Sufism.  While this sect is very small today, they are still well known for the whirling dervish ceremony. The place we went to was fairly small and again we were the only tourists. From a balcony above, we watched men and boys spin around to live music. The whole ceremony couldn’t have lasted more than 40 minutess, but all of the participants did not stop spinning the whole time. Let me repreat that – Spinning. Quicky. In a circle for 30 mins without stopping. It was mesmerizing.



After the ceremony, our guide gave us his card. Told us that he had  a great time getting to meet us. He said that he lived with an America for 6 years when he was a teenager and was just trying to give back. It was a good reminder that there are still really friendly people in the world!

Instead of heading back to Istanbul, we decided to spend the night. Hooray for cheap hostels and comfortable jeans to sleep in.

The next morning I went with four girls to a Turkish Hamam as Bursa is well known for their bath houses. The Hamam is similar to a spa expect you also bath yourself and it has more of a social feel. Out of the 100 + people at the Hamam, the four of us were the only foreigners so it was nice to be able to see Turkish families enjoying their Saturday at the bath together.

For 48tl (~$28), I spent two hours at the Hamam.  I received a message, a Turkish scrub, spent time in the sauna and pool area. The scrub is where you have two women violenetly rub down your body with something similar to sandpaper to remove all the dead skin on your whole body. While the expierence was a tad painful, my skin has never felt more smooth. 

(For obvious reasons pictures in the Hamman were not possible).

After the Hamam we headed back to Istanbul - For absolutely zero planning it turned out to be a fabulous weekend!


Thursday, February 21, 2013

Free Time Comes to an End... School Begins

Hello!


I have just completed my first week of classes at Boğaziçi University where I am taking three chemical engineering classes and other classes that are yet to be determined given the difficult registration system.   


In the event that you are interested in the University...


Boğaziçi University (pronounced Bow-ah-zee-chi) was founded by the U.S. in the 1860s and was the first American University to be founded ouside of the U.S. In the 1970s it was handed over to Turkey where it has become the primer public university. The college admission system is quite different from the U.S. One nationalized placement test determines where you can be admitted into school and Boğaziçi usually takes the top couple thousand out of over 1.5 million students. Safe to say I am in some smart company!




I will try and upload more pictures of the University later, but I tried not too make the stereotypical exchange student mistake of standing in the middle of campus on the first day of school and taking pictures of all the buildings...


Campus 

Hard to Believe this from an Outlook on Campus


Night View from Campus

The Main Lawn


So since school only started this past week, you many be wondering what I have been up to since I returned from my travels around Turkey on Feb 3.  Essentially I had a week and a half of getting to meet all the other exchange students who arrived at the beginning of February (there are a little over 200 student with about 40% of them being American).

Activities during this time:

1.  Hosting a pot luck at my apartment


Since we have a fairly small kitchen, we made sure that everyone brought a dish!


Potluck!


2.  Visiting the Modern Art Museum

I went with two of my flatmates for a walk along the river to a Modern Art Museum that was staged in an old mansion overlooking the water. While the art itself was beautiful, one of the highlights was looking at the view of the water from the immaculate front lawn and balcony.

Modern Art Museum

Modern Art Museum

3.  Returned to the Historic Pensinsula for Fish sandwhiches and a trip to the Spice Market

Since most of my first month was spent traveling to the Historic Peninsula where many of the main sites are located, I decided to go back to see some of the areas that I missed the first time around. Although traffic makes getting to this area a bit difficult, I managed to visit the Spice Bazar and walk along the bridge where some of the best fish sandwiches I've eaten are fried up for you on the spot.


Stall at the Spice Market


Best Fish Sandwiches

4.  Exploits to Bebek

Bebek is an idyllic town on the Bophorous that is located about a 10 - 15 minute walk from the University - this walk includes a set of 200 stairs down to the water. Once my quads stop burning, I love walking along the water and looking at the boats or sitting down to read in a cafe. I stopped in a Starbucks that was rated the second most beautiful Starbucks in the world - can't say I would disagree.


View of the Water from the Bebek Walkway

Starbucks Window

5.  Erasmus Dinners and Welcome Events

The university put on a series of dinner and events for us to meet other ERASMUS and exchange students. Because there are so many universities in Istanbul, there are also a bunch of city wide events targeted directly at study abroad students.

Me and Some New Friends!


6.  Return trips to Ortakoy 

Ortakoy was the area of Istanbul that I stayed during my first month in Turkey. I still consider it one of my favorite neighborhoods in the city and have visited a couple of times for dinner and afternoon tea and tavla (backgammon) by the water.

Ortakoy

Ortakoy Waterfront

In other news...

I am still not able to leave the country due to the residency permit issue, but I have my appointment in a week. Hopefully all will go smoothly and I will have some upcoming posts about places I've traveled throughout Europe.

I am also planning on trying out for the university soccer team this weekend!

Monday, February 4, 2013

TURKEY TRIP

Sorry for the long delay between posts, but I have spent the last 10 days traveling around Turkey and made the wise decision to leave my laptop in the apartment in Istanbul.

My cultural class ended on January 23rd leaving us with two and a half weeks of freedom before classes began. The possibilities for travel around Europe were endless! Oh wait, Turkey has a strange and unusual visa system the details to which I will not explain. The end result is me not being able to leave Turkey until March 1. Therefore, my past 10 days have been spent traveling around Turkey!

Stop 1: Cappadocia -  Land of the Fairy Chimneys and Cave Homes

After moving into my apartment near the University, I flew to central Turkey to a small town called Goreme. We spent four days making the most of a tourist town during the off season - taking advantage of cheap prices and extreme friendliness.

Town of Goreme

ACTIVITES IN CAPPADOCIA:


1. Hiking - The landscape in Goreme is unlike any I've seen. The rock formations make for some excellent hiking and very interesting buildings.

Example of a typical home in Goreme
A canyon near our hostel that we spent a lot of time exploring!
Fairy Chimneys 
2. Hot Air Ballooning - Worth the splurge for some incredible views over the canyons in the area.



3. Turkish Night Show - We were talked into an all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-drink, dancing Turkish night show. Was it super touristy and a bit cheesy? Yes. Did we have a lot of fun? Absolutely.



4. Motorcycling  - Somehow I was allowed to pay $30 dollars to rent a motorcycle scooter for three hours and ride around the open roads. Am I glad I did it? Yes.  However, I am quite glad I passed very few cars and potholes. Not to worry parents, this was a one time experience.


5. Underground City (Derinkuyu) - A quick bus ride took us to the underground city of Derinkuyu. While it is unclear exactly when the city was built, many presume it was a shelter for Christians avoiding persecution.  It is made up of a series of tunnels and caves that can house up to 20,000 people. The city reaches 8 stories below ground although less that 20% was open to public viewing.



6. Outdoor Air Museum - We spent about two hours exploring the small community of churches and monasteries built into the rocky hillside. 
Cave Churches
Cave Churches
7. Lots of card playing and tea drinking!

Stop 2: Pamukkale

After bidding adieu to our hostel in Goreme, we took a bus to Pamukkale  ("Cotton Castle" in Turkish). We ended up spending a full 24 hours in Pamukkale, although given the off season and the depressing nature of the town, an afternoon would have been sufficient.

Pamukkale is known for a giant, white rocky cliff with many thermal springs. We hiked up the cliff in coats and bare feet letting the warm water trickle over our feet.  At the top of the face we also had the chance to explore the ruins of Hierapous - a roman city that dates back to the 5th c. BC.

Looks like snow, Feels like rock
Stop 3: Selcuk (Ephesus)

From Pamukkale we took another bus to Selcuk, an idylic town about 2 miles from the ruins of Ephesus. We stayed in a great hostel and spent much of the first afternoon wandering the streets of the town.

On our first full day we walked the mile and a half to the ruins of Ephesus. Ephesus is one of the largest Roman ruins of the Mediterranean and housed more than 500,000 people during its peak. It was eventually converted to a Christian city.

Library of Celsus (2nd c.)
 Commissioned as a Mausoleum for Julius Celsus
Ephesus Ruins
Temple of Domitian
Dedicated to 1st century Roman emperor
After spending the morning touring Ephesus, we headed to the nearby Aegean coast for a long walk along the beach. Despite the 55 degree weather, we took a quick dip in the sea!  Glad that Cape Cod has trained me for cold water.

Pamucak Beach (Aegean Sea)
On our second day in Selcuk we walked to St. John's Basilica.  While much of the stone Basilica is destroyed,  if it were still standing it would be the 7th largest Basilica in the world. St. John is buried at the site.
Entrance to the Basilica
Final Stop: Izmir

We were told that Izmir was not a touristy place to visit during the winter because it a modern and liberal city known for its beaches. However, we had a great time wandering the boardwalk and people-watching in cafes.

Waterfront of Izmir
One of the boys I was traveling with is interning with a company that has a branch in Izmir. A women from the company treated the four of us to a nice dinner on the waterfront. Hooray for finding good friends!

Back to Istanbul
The only things I have to say about the bus ride back to Istanbul are:
- very nice bus....but broken AC
- would have taken 4 hours by car..... 9 hours by bus

Thankful for wonderful weather and company during my 10 days traveling!


Saturday, January 19, 2013

Racetrack

So I am posting because my experience today was too good not to share!

Today we took an hour bus ride outside the city to visit ISTANBUL PARK, which was voted one of the best race tracks in the world.

We had the opportunity to meet with Vural Ak - one of the most prominent business men in Turkey and owner of the park (renting it from the government for the next 10 years). Mr. Ak showed us his collection of antique cars and modern race cars - nissans, BMWs, lamborghinis, maseratis, etc.

Despite what I'm sure is a very busy schedule for a multimillion dollar business man, Mr. Ak was kind enough to sit down with the eight of us and discuss our impressions of Turkey as well as how he established his business. Today his company, Intercity, is the largest car rental company in Turkey.

After some tea, Mr. Ak took us for a ride in his favorite car to drive - a Nissan GT-R 650 hp race car.
I was lucky enough to be in the first group and got to ride around the track before it rained.

Top speed: 250 km/hr

Total distance: 5km

It was crazy. Every turn we approached I thought that there was no way we could slow down in time, yet I am alive to tell the tale.


Before leaving Mr. Ak invited us to join us on his yacht in June when the weather is nice (jet ride to the marina included) - He was such an incredible host and I'm dubious if anything else in Turkey is going to top today!





Antique Cars



Car that James Bond Drives


The Track


Car that we rode in!


We are so lucky to have such a well connected professor taking us around Turkey!


Wednesday, January 16, 2013

I would like to preface this blog, or attempt at a blog, with the following statement:

"I can in no way promise that there will be more than one post" 

Now that I have set the expectation low that this blog will continue throughout my time in Istanbul, I should perhaps share some of my experiences thus far.
...................................................................................................................................................................

As of yesterday I have been in Istanbul for two weeks - two weeks packed with touring around the city with 6 other Wash U students and an incredible professor who seems to know every third person in a city of 13 million.

Because I am hoping to condense two weeks into a single post given my delayed start to the study-abroad-blogging-train, I will share some general impressions and then just post some pictures. If you know me then you know that I am an engineer not a writer so keep an open mind.

Here it goes,

1. People drink A LOT of tea (çay). In two weeks I think I have made the official switch from coffee to tea. Then again, maybe that is because turkish coffee consists of an expresso shot with the grounds left in the cup.

2. I love a city near the water and will never again be satified in a city where you can't travel from Asia and Europe in a $1.00 15 minute ferry ride.

3. There are cats and dogs everywhere, but they are well trained. I swear I saw a dog look both ways before he crossed the street, which is probably good given that the traffic and driving are crazy. Pedestrians do NOT have the right of way.

4. Turkish is really hard...And the letters sound different...And they don't understand when I try to say simple words...

5. Turkey has some delicious food!  Kabob, Doner, Borek!

6. Backgammon (known here as tavla) is popular. Therefore, finding a coffee shop and playing a hour of tavela has become a typical afternoon pastime.


Enjoy the pictures - Hopefully I will elaborate more on my experiences in upcoming posts!



My room for the first 3 weeks



Beautiful view of the Bophorous which divides 
Europe on the left from Asia on the right


 Galetta Tower
We climbed to the top and saw a full panoramic view of the city!

Tasty Street Food #1- Borek


Tasty Street Food #2 - Doner
(Essentially shaved meet put into a sandwich)

______________________
Istanbul city walls

Blue Mosque

Hagia Sofia
6th century Byzantine Church -
 Converted to Moque during the Ottoman Empire



5th/6th (?) century Roman Aquaduct
 with 21st century cars beneath



View from the University where I am studying!

Suleymaniye


Cistern

 Dolmabahce Palace

Lastly, two of my favorite pictures so far!